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Removed corner trim. Peeled back panel. Stapled panel back. Nail corner trim back on. Putty holes. I removed the load side on the back of the GFCI outlet. This allowed the outlet to reset. I checked with a volt meter and found that the other outlets after the GFCI are shorted. The hot wire is making contact with the ground wire. I started at the slide room and living room TV outlets. I started to unhooked one outlet at a time to determine what part of the wiring was shorted. I checked the wiring from the counter top outlet to inside the cabinet. I checked the wiring from the slide room to the underbelly and it was good. I started using a tone generator to track the wiring. I followed the wiring into the wall by the command center to the ceiling. I followed it to the living room TV. I unhooked the wiring there and tested the run from the GFCI to the TV and it tested good. I then followed the wiring from the living room outlet to the outside kitchen refrigerator outlet. I unhooked the outlet and tested that part of the wiring. I found that it was shorted in the roof or back wall before getting to the refrigerator outlet. I followed the next run of wire to inside the underbelly where the slide room plugs in to the wiring. I tested that run of wiring and it texted good. So the only short is in 1 part of the circuit. I can not replace that part of the wiring without removing the back wall and roof. I unhooked the bad run of wiring and I will run a new wire from the back of the GFCI outlet to the slide room outlet wiring. This is the wiring that comes from the refrigerator. So by tying into the run between the 2 outlets with a new power source, I will be able to power the last 2 outlets in the circuit with a new run of wiring and the living room TV will be on the good original circuit. I ran a new For paper claims only only ­use one pre­authorization number per warranty claim form Staple a copy of this pre­authorization to a warranty claim form. Fill out the header information and the

partial-match • confidence 0.42

Removed corner trim. Peeled back panel. Stapled panel back. Nail corner trim back on. Putty holes. I removed the load side on the back of the GFCI outlet. This allowed the outlet to reset. I checked with a volt meter and found that the other outlets after the GFCI are shorted. The hot wire is making contact with the ground wire. I started at the slide room and living room TV outlets. I started to unhooked one outlet at a time to determine what part of the wiring was shorted. I checked the wiring from the counter top outlet to inside the cabinet. I checked the wiring from the slide room to the underbelly and it was good. I started using a tone generator to track the wiring. I followed the wiring into the wall by the command center to the ceiling. I followed it to the living room TV. I unhooked the wiring there and tested the run from the GFCI to the TV and it tested good. I then followed the wiring from the living room outlet to the outside kitchen refrigerator outlet. I unhooked the outlet and tested that part of the wiring. I found that it was shorted in the roof or back wall before getting to the refrigerator outlet. I followed the next run of wire to inside the underbelly where the slide room plugs in to the wiring. I tested that run of wiring and it texted good. So the only short is in 1 part of the circuit. I can not replace that part of the wiring without removing the back wall and roof. I unhooked the bad run of wiring and I will run a new wire from the back of the GFCI outlet to the slide room outlet wiring. This is the wiring that comes from the refrigerator. So by tying into the run between the 2 outlets with a new power source, I will be able to power the last 2 outlets in the circuit with a new run of wiring and the living room TV will be on the good original circuit. I ran a new For paper claims only only ­use one pre­authorization number per warranty claim form Staple a copy of this pre­authorization to a warranty claim form. Fill out the header information and the

partial-match • confidence 0.42