iClaims Intelligence

I started by removing the outside cover to the furnace, I found that the wires were pulling INC., MYERS "RV" CENTER, Customer #: 1000 hard on the control board and bending the terminals for the 12 V and the blower on the Control board. I remove the board I tested for Power tested the sale switch to make sure that wasnt stuck Everything on the furnace is good. I rewired the control board and reinstalled so that the wires have some slack in them. I took the thermostat off the wall to see if the thermostat was passing voltage when it calls for heat, it was. I pulled the ceiling assembly down for the air conditioner and checked continuity from the thermostat wires back to the AC control board to make sure that the wire that calls for heat was getting a signal back to the AC control board, again it was. I started testing continuity in the wires from the AC control board that go back to the furnace, and the white wire that comes from the control board that calls for heat was not getting a signal back to the furnace. A continuity test told me that the white wire in that two wire thermostat cable was broken somewhere. I disconnected the wires at the furnace. I jumped power everything came on. The thermostat wire from the AC to the furnace, needs to be rerun and reattached. in order to run this wire it goes from the ceiling assembly in the living room through the ceiling panels down the wall between the *1000* bathroom and the bunks and down to the furnace. I will probably have to pull the seam molding down in the living room, pull the ceiling panel partially down and pull the wall panel and the shelf behind the toilet in order to fish the wire down. Repairs estimated to take 4 1/2 hours.

needs-review • confidence 0.34

Wrinkled and pulling away from wall from the silicon at the front cap moulding.

needs-review • confidence 0.33

I had to remove four pieces of batten trim, a small wall panel, the LP detector and the thermostat in order to access the interior of the wall. I used a wedge to prop the door up until its proper location, I then removed the five upper screws out of the tall hinge pre-drilled and used 3 1/2 inch wood screws to attach the two studs together. Then I pre-drilled a couple of pocket screws to reinforce the studs to the ceiling plate. The screws I used were not black so I had to paint those to match. Then had to pull a bunch of staples and nails from the walls and trim, reinstall the panels batten trims corner, trim, and fill all staple holes with putty. Job completed

needs-review • confidence 0.32

It appears that the light has been installed, removed and reinstalled, but where it was reinstalled INC., MYERS "RV" CENTER, Customer #: 1000 showed the first set of existing holes. There was also a gap between the light fixture and the cabinet ceiling panel.

needs-review • confidence 0.32