Claim explorer / evidence thread
Claim 73528
MYRV 12024 • Stephanie • Paid • open-range
risk 0.00
deadline Overdue / escalation ready
images 0
matched 13
review 28
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129d elapsed • 0d remaining
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Completed stage
129d elapsed • 0d remaining
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Completed stage
129d elapsed • 0d remaining
Escalation Eligible
Completed stage
129d elapsed • 0d remaining
Resolved
Overdue / escalation ready
129d elapsed • 0d remaining • Overdue
AI Claim Analysis
Estimated Recovery Amount
$3,875.00
What this claim may still be worth based on current evidence.
Compliance Score
100/100
Higher is cleaner. Lower means more missing support, more friction, or more OEM pushback.
Violations Detected
2
OEM Response Deadline Exceeded • Payment Deadline Exceeded
Missing Items
28
No active evidence gaps are listed.
Deadline Status
Overdue / escalation ready
129 days open in the visible workflow.
Recommended Action
Escalate to State
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Dossier completeness
Dossier has not been generated yet. Evidence presence is not treated as complete.
US dispute readiness
Evidence packet check
Operational preflight for US warranty escalation: packet size, chronology, cross-references, witness checks, source grounding, and backup evidence.
Estimated pack size
15
Proxy count from docs, images, comments, and claim lines. Actual PDF pages still need final preflight.
Evidence packet lane
Compact packet candidate
Small enough for a compact escalation packet, assuming final PDFs stay clean.
Chronology
Ready to order
Visible span: Jun 24, 2026, 2:44 PM to Sep 11, 2026, 2:58 AM.
Indexed evidence
3 docs / 0 images
Use only the strongest evidence in the escalation packet; keep the rest as support material.
Cross-reference base
Available
Line items, comments, or gap flags can be tied back to supporting material.
Witness verification
Human verification required
Any statement or affidavit output must be checked by the witness before use.
AI / citation gate
Manual check required
Escalation material must keep facts, inferences, citations, and source documents separated.
Expert evidence pressure
Not signalled
No expert-evidence trigger is visible from the current image rollup.
Escalation posture
Escalation watch
129 days open in the visible workflow; risk score 0.00.
Claim Summary
Evidence summary
No evidence summary yet.
Path
/home/openclaw/nas/Dropbox/MYRV 12024/8- Claims Paid/September 2026/Open range/73528/Paid claim.pdf
Timeline
First seen Jun 24, 2026, 2:44 PM • last seen Sep 11, 2026, 2:58 AM
Evidence flags
No active evidence gap flags
Comment Intelligence
Thread depth
12 indexed side comments on this claim.
Latest visible thread signal
Sep 10, 2026, 9:55 AM • dealer_or_external • @Stephanie K I will let John M. know and see if he can adjust it. Thank you
Role mix
Dealer 0 • OEM 0 • Processor 7
Decision cues
Denial signals 2 • info / missing-doc asks 5 • approval signals 10
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Work missing-doc or reply asks first from the thread.
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Claim Lines
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WATER HEATER IS NOT COMING ON LP OR ELECTRIC
partial-match • confidence 0.42
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WATER HEATER IS NOT COMING ON LP OR ELECTRIC
partial-match • confidence 0.55
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WATER HEATER IS NOT COMING ON LP OR ELECTRIC
partial-match • confidence 0.55
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WATER HEATER IS NOT COMING ON LP OR ELECTRIC
needs-review • confidence 0.27
cause
Bypasses NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349 12v tstate for gas bad
needs-review • confidence 0.31
cause
Bypasses NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349 12v tstate for gas bad
needs-review • confidence 0.29
cause
Bypasses NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349 12v tstate for gas bad
needs-review • confidence 0.29
cause
Bypasses NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349 12v tstate for gas bad
needs-review • confidence 0.05
correction
I need to bypass the tank lines and Check the rest of the lines. Request .30min Customer complaint water heater not working on gas or electric. Started by connecting city water to the unit, ensuring that the water heater was full of water and that the waterlines did not have air in them. Verified the gas was turned on, verified there was propane in the bottles by turning on the stove top. Turned the water heater switch on for LP went to the water heater itself, nothing was happening, no gas and no flame. While on lunch break, turned the electric side on, left it on after the lunch break turned the kitchen faucet on which is the furthest from the water heater. Water is extremely hot indicating that the electric side *60349* is working properly. Then began checking components, starting with the electric panel to verify that I did not have any 12 V fuses that would be operating the gas side of the water heater flow check each fuse in the electric panel. All fuses were good. Went to the back of the water heater checked 12 V power at the back of the water heater for the incoming lines. Proper voltage. Went to the water heater removed the cover that is covering up the T stats for both 120 and 12 V checked incoming power to the T staff for 12 V at 12 V power on one side not the other. Check the reset button was not tripped disconnected both 12 V lines. Check continuity on the T stat at no continuity Use the jumper wire between the 12 V lines as soon as the jumper wire was hooked up gas immediately turned on and began burning a flame burning a proper flame, indicating that the gas is operational that the T stat is bad Photos uploaded of the label for the water heater will need to order a 12 V T stat for this particular water heater. Well, request an additional 45 minutes to remove and replace the T stat and retest the water heater for the gas side. Replace the two stat on both sides of the water heater, the gas and the electric side. Connected city water to the unit turned on the propane turned on the switch for the water heater for LP water heater turned on and ran on LP normally. Turned off the LP turned on the electric side allowed the unit to set for a period of time then checked to see if the water heater was producing hot water on the electric side is producing hot water on the electric side. This job is now complete.
partial-match • confidence 0.56
correction
I need to bypass the tank lines and Check the rest of the lines. Request .30min Customer complaint water heater not working on gas or electric. Started by connecting city water to the unit, ensuring that the water heater was full of water and that the waterlines did not have air in them. Verified the gas was turned on, verified there was propane in the bottles by turning on the stove top. Turned the water heater switch on for LP went to the water heater itself, nothing was happening, no gas and no flame. While on lunch break, turned the electric side on, left it on after the lunch break turned the kitchen faucet on which is the furthest from the water heater. Water is extremely hot indicating that the electric side *60349* is working properly. Then began checking components, starting with the electric panel to verify that I did not have any 12 V fuses that would be operating the gas side of the water heater flow check each fuse in the electric panel. All fuses were good. Went to the back of the water heater checked 12 V power at the back of the water heater for the incoming lines. Proper voltage. Went to the water heater removed the cover that is covering up the T stats for both 120 and 12 V checked incoming power to the T staff for 12 V at 12 V power on one side not the other. Check the reset button was not tripped disconnected both 12 V lines. Check continuity on the T stat at no continuity Use the jumper wire between the 12 V lines as soon as the jumper wire was hooked up gas immediately turned on and began burning a flame burning a proper flame, indicating that the gas is operational that the T stat is bad Photos uploaded of the label for the water heater will need to order a 12 V T stat for this particular water heater. Well, request an additional 45 minutes to remove and replace the T stat and retest the water heater for the gas side. Replace the two stat on both sides of the water heater, the gas and the electric side. Connected city water to the unit turned on the propane turned on the switch for the water heater for LP water heater turned on and ran on LP normally. Turned off the LP turned on the electric side allowed the unit to set for a period of time then checked to see if the water heater was producing hot water on the electric side is producing hot water on the electric side. This job is now complete.
matched • confidence 0.69
correction
I need to bypass the tank lines and Check the rest of the lines. Request .30min Customer complaint water heater not working on gas or electric. Started by connecting city water to the unit, ensuring that the water heater was full of water and that the waterlines did not have air in them. Verified the gas was turned on, verified there was propane in the bottles by turning on the stove top. Turned the water heater switch on for LP went to the water heater itself, nothing was happening, no gas and no flame. While on lunch break, turned the electric side on, left it on after the lunch break turned the kitchen faucet on which is the furthest from the water heater. Water is extremely hot indicating that the electric side *60349* is working properly. Then began checking components, starting with the electric panel to verify that I did not have any 12 V fuses that would be operating the gas side of the water heater flow check each fuse in the electric panel. All fuses were good. Went to the back of the water heater checked 12 V power at the back of the water heater for the incoming lines. Proper voltage. Went to the water heater removed the cover that is covering up the T stats for both 120 and 12 V checked incoming power to the T staff for 12 V at 12 V power on one side not the other. Check the reset button was not tripped disconnected both 12 V lines. Check continuity on the T stat at no continuity Use the jumper wire between the 12 V lines as soon as the jumper wire was hooked up gas immediately turned on and began burning a flame burning a proper flame, indicating that the gas is operational that the T stat is bad Photos uploaded of the label for the water heater will need to order a 12 V T stat for this particular water heater. Well, request an additional 45 minutes to remove and replace the T stat and retest the water heater for the gas side. Replace the two stat on both sides of the water heater, the gas and the electric side. Connected city water to the unit turned on the propane turned on the switch for the water heater for LP water heater turned on and ran on LP normally. Turned off the LP turned on the electric side allowed the unit to set for a period of time then checked to see if the water heater was producing hot water on the electric side is producing hot water on the electric side. This job is now complete.
matched • confidence 0.69
correction
I need to bypass the tank lines and Check the rest of the lines. Request .30min Customer complaint water heater not working on gas or electric. Started by connecting city water to the unit, ensuring that the water heater was full of water and that the waterlines did not have air in them. Verified the gas was turned on, verified there was propane in the bottles by turning on the stove top. Turned the water heater switch on for LP went to the water heater itself, nothing was happening, no gas and no flame. While on lunch break, turned the electric side on, left it on after the lunch break turned the kitchen faucet on which is the furthest from the water heater. Water is extremely hot indicating that the electric side *60349* is working properly. Then began checking components, starting with the electric panel to verify that I did not have any 12 V fuses that would be operating the gas side of the water heater flow check each fuse in the electric panel. All fuses were good. Went to the back of the water heater checked 12 V power at the back of the water heater for the incoming lines. Proper voltage. Went to the water heater removed the cover that is covering up the T stats for both 120 and 12 V checked incoming power to the T staff for 12 V at 12 V power on one side not the other. Check the reset button was not tripped disconnected both 12 V lines. Check continuity on the T stat at no continuity Use the jumper wire between the 12 V lines as soon as the jumper wire was hooked up gas immediately turned on and began burning a flame burning a proper flame, indicating that the gas is operational that the T stat is bad Photos uploaded of the label for the water heater will need to order a 12 V T stat for this particular water heater. Well, request an additional 45 minutes to remove and replace the T stat and retest the water heater for the gas side. Replace the two stat on both sides of the water heater, the gas and the electric side. Connected city water to the unit turned on the propane turned on the switch for the water heater for LP water heater turned on and ran on LP normally. Turned off the LP turned on the electric side allowed the unit to set for a period of time then checked to see if the water heater was producing hot water on the electric side is producing hot water on the electric side. This job is now complete.
needs-review • confidence 0.32
complaint
Transferred to RV*73528-1 on 02 JUL 26 Estimate amount was 0.00 CUSTOMER STATES KITCHEN SINK IS BACKING UP - STATES THERE WAS A GASKET LAYING *73528* UNDER THE CABINET
partial-match • confidence 0.48
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE WALL NEXT TO ENTRY DOOR IS COMING APART. WHEN ENTRYING THE UNIT IT WILL BE THE WALL ON THE RIGHT
partial-match • confidence 0.42
cause
Unknown Customer complaint sink not draining
partial-match • confidence 0.43
cause
Adhesive and staples failed A portion of the wall came completely loose
needs-review • confidence 0.14
correction
Have to check the plumbing. The plumbing needs to be checked for obstruction. All of the plumbing needs to be taken out and cleaned. If it has obstruction replace as needed. Then put all pipes back together. Then test for leaks. Request 1.00 06.16.26: With city water hooked up to unit ran water in the sink, the sink never backed up. Put the stopper, in filled the sink a quarter of the way, pulled the stopper out, sink drained normally. Put the stopper back in filled the sink more than half again pulled the stopper sink drained completely normal. Unable to replicate customer complaint. Job is complete Will, request 15 minutes later time.
partial-match • confidence 0.53
correction
Tape on wall needs to be removed. The wall ends need to be stapled and add battens to *60349* match the color of the wall. Battens need to be stapled over the center of the split walls. Battens have to be cut into size in order to fit. Need to order two 8 ft sticks Photos attached Request 1.5 06.16.26: Found the wall to the right of the entry by the bedroom, under the bedroom window had come completely loose at both seams. Long seam just inside the entry door and the short seam under the window came completely unstapled all the way down even along the floor. Pulled all the loose staples, removed the seam tape from under the window and the long seam tape for the ceiling just inside the entry door. Double checked all the staples to ensure that they were all pulled and recessed so that the panel would lay flat. Using a pneumatic, staple gun, staple the paneling on both seams along the floor and both studs under the window. With new seam tape, replaced the seam tape under the window and the long piece just inside the entry door. Used putty stick and puttied all visible, staple holes. Work is now complete. Requesting 1hr
matched • confidence 0.68
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE WALL NEXT TO ENTRY DOOR IS COMING APART. WHEN ENTRYING THE UNIT IT WILL BE THE WALL ON THE RIGHT
partial-match • confidence 0.55
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE BATTEN STRIPS AROUND THE SHOWER IS COMING LOOSE AND THE SURROUND IS BUBBLING, WHEN LOOKING INTO SHOWER IT WILL BE ON THE LEFT
needs-review • confidence 0.28
cause
Adhesive and staples failed A portion of the wall came completely loose
partial-match • confidence 0.56
cause
Unknown Trim came loose on one side fell off on the other 4 totals staples on each side holding the trim in place
needs-review • confidence 0.14
correction
Tape on wall needs to be removed. The wall ends need to be stapled and add battens to *60349* match the color of the wall. Battens need to be stapled over the center of the split walls. Battens have to be cut into size in order to fit. Need to order two 8 ft sticks Photos attached Request 1.5 06.16.26: Found the wall to the right of the entry by the bedroom, under the bedroom window had come completely loose at both seams. Long seam just inside the entry door and the short seam under the window came completely unstapled all the way down even along the floor. Pulled all the loose staples, removed the seam tape from under the window and the long seam tape for the ceiling just inside the entry door. Double checked all the staples to ensure that they were all pulled and recessed so that the panel would lay flat. Using a pneumatic, staple gun, staple the paneling on both seams along the floor and both studs under the window. With new seam tape, replaced the seam tape under the window and the long piece just inside the entry door. Used putty stick and puttied all visible, staple holes. Work is now complete. Requesting 1hr
matched • confidence 0.98
correction
Batten needs to be stapled and glued to the wall. It needs to be siliconed to the shower wall so it doesnt leak water behind of shower panned. Shower wall needs to be resealed on the wall that holds the shower in place. Photos attached *73528* Request .75 06.16.26: Trim on the shower edge on both sides had come loose and one side had fallen completely off. Found on the trim a total of four staples holding the trim in place on each side. Completely removed the staples from the trim that fell off. Used a brad nailer, nailed the trim back in place. On the other side remove the two staples that were visible. Used the brad nailer and nailed the trim back in place. Used putty stick sealing putting all new nail holes and old staple holes. The trim is now secure. Found 3 places on the shower surround that were loose, added rivets to secure the shower surround from bubbling. For a total of 4 rivets. Sealed the top and bottom of the shower surround with white silicone Work completed Requesting 1.5hrs
partial-match • confidence 0.41
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE BATTEN STRIPS AROUND THE SHOWER IS COMING LOOSE AND THE SURROUND IS BUBBLING, WHEN LOOKING INTO SHOWER IT WILL BE ON THE LEFT
partial-match • confidence 0.59
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WINDOW SEAL BY TABLE IS COMING UNDONE - ON PASS. SIDE
partial-match • confidence 0.38
cause
Unknown Trim came loose on one side fell off on the other 4 totals staples on each side holding the trim in place
partial-match • confidence 0.59
cause
Window seal has shrunk Seal came out of window
partial-match • confidence 0.38
correction
Batten needs to be stapled and glued to the wall. It needs to be siliconed to the shower wall so it doesnt leak water behind of shower panned. Shower wall needs to be resealed on the wall that holds the shower in place. Photos attached *73528* Request .75 06.16.26: Trim on the shower edge on both sides had come loose and one side had fallen completely off. Found on the trim a total of four staples holding the trim in place on each side. Completely removed the staples from the trim that fell off. Used a brad nailer, nailed the trim back in place. On the other side remove the two staples that were visible. Used the brad nailer and nailed the trim back in place. Used putty stick sealing putting all new nail holes and old staple holes. The trim is now secure. Found 3 places on the shower surround that were loose, added rivets to secure the shower surround from bubbling. For a total of 4 rivets. Sealed the top and bottom of the shower surround with white silicone Work completed Requesting 1.5hrs
matched • confidence 0.86
correction
Old seal has to be removed, slot needs to be cleaned. New seal has to be cut for right size and installed in factory location. Seal needs to be adjusted as needed *73528* Photos attached Request .75 06.16.26: Pulled the whole seal out. Reattached the seal all the way around. The seal is rubber and clips into place on the window frame. Checked window and screen for proper operation window working properly Work completed Requesting .20
partial-match • confidence 0.43
complaint
Transferred to RV*73528-1 on 02 JUL 26 Estimate amount was 0.00 CUSTOMER STATES BATTERY IS SMELLING LIKE ROTTEN EGGS
partial-match • confidence 0.52
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES OVER THE SLIDE OUT THERE APPEARS TO BE SOMETHING LOOSE - WHEN CLOSING - ON THE INSIDE NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349
needs-review • confidence 0.15
cause
Unknow Customer complaint battery smells like rotten eggs
partial-match • confidence 0.46
cause
Wires rapped around piston Complaint of something loose
needs-review • confidence 0.06
correction
Photos attached *60349* Request 30 min Removed the cover from the battery and disconnected the battery. Tested the voltage on the battery battery indicated full charge. Tested the charging system, charging system putting out the correct voltage Could not smell any unusual loaders caps from both sides of the battery it smell a rotten egg go noticed on the positive side. All three cells were completely dried on the negative side. Two of the three cells were completely dry. Remove the battery from the couch tested it with the interstate battery tester did recommend replacement of the battery. Due to the dry cells in the battery is not covered by warranty contacted the customer customer stated to take care of himself Battery is put back in the box however it was not reconnected to the coach Job complete Request 45 minutes
matched • confidence 0.81
correction
Remove bottom panel. Unscrewed the piston and motor to the slider. Fixed the wiring and install the piston and motor to the slider, tested the slider to see if problems have been fixed and adjust as needed. Screwed back under panel. Photos attached Request 3 hours 06.16.26: Checked the tech notes from the previous technician. Wrote up that there were wires wrapped around the piston. Used an air chisel, removed several of the nails holding the bottom board at the through frame. Found that a wire bundle had pulled through the bell hole. Did not find any wires wrapped around the *60349* piston pulled the wire back out of the bell hole, reattached inside, straighten the wires out. The wires were scraped across the top of the through frame slide piston, but not interfering with the function of the slide. Ran the slide in and out several times, slide is now operation as it should. Reattach the bottom board with the nails that were chiseled off with self drilling screws. Slide operation is normal. Work is complete. Requesting 1.0hr
needs-review • confidence 0.21
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES WINDOW SEAL BY TABLE IS COMING UNDONE - ON PASS. SIDE
matched • confidence 0.68
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BLIND OVER THE COUCH WILL NOT STAY UP - DRIVERS SIDE
needs-review • confidence 0.06
cause
Window seal has shrunk Seal came out of window
matched • confidence 0.68
cause
Lose cable Loose tension cords
needs-review • confidence 0.06
correction
Old seal has to be removed, slot needs to be cleaned. New seal has to be cut for right size and installed in factory location. Seal needs to be adjusted as needed *73528* Photos attached Request .75 06.16.26: Pulled the whole seal out. Reattached the seal all the way around. The seal is rubber and clips into place on the window frame. Checked window and screen for proper operation window working properly Work completed Requesting .20
matched • confidence 0.88
correction
Tighten cable on blind and adjust as needed Page 4 of 6 © 2026 Integrated Dealer Systems *73528* .20 Promised Date: 28 AUG 26 W/O: 73528 06.16.26: Tightened the tension cords on the blind. Now stays up Work completed Requesting .20
needs-review • confidence 0.00
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES OVER THE SLIDE OUT THERE APPEARS TO BE SOMETHING LOOSE - WHEN CLOSING - ON THE INSIDE NOREENE TAFOYA, LETICIA Customer #: 60349
partial-match • confidence 0.59
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BOTH FENDERSKIRTS ARE BROKE
needs-review • confidence 0.00
cause
Wires rapped around piston Complaint of something loose
partial-match • confidence 0.40
cause
Unknown Fender skirts cracked and broken both sides *73528*
needs-review • confidence 0.06
correction
Remove bottom panel. Unscrewed the piston and motor to the slider. Fixed the wiring and install the piston and motor to the slider, tested the slider to see if problems have been fixed and adjust as needed. Screwed back under panel. Photos attached Request 3 hours 06.16.26: Checked the tech notes from the previous technician. Wrote up that there were wires wrapped around the piston. Used an air chisel, removed several of the nails holding the bottom board at the through frame. Found that a wire bundle had pulled through the bell hole. Did not find any wires wrapped around the *60349* piston pulled the wire back out of the bell hole, reattached inside, straighten the wires out. The wires were scraped across the top of the through frame slide piston, but not interfering with the function of the slide. Ran the slide in and out several times, slide is now operation as it should. Reattach the bottom board with the nails that were chiseled off with self drilling screws. Slide operation is normal. Work is complete. Requesting 1.0hr
partial-match • confidence 0.61
correction
Left and right fenders need to be unscrewed and replaced with new ones. New fenders need to be ordered. Left and right fenders need to be screwed back in and adjusted and tested. Photos attached Request .75 06.16.26: Recommend remove and replace both fender skirts
needs-review • confidence 0.11
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BLIND OVER THE COUCH WILL NOT STAY UP - DRIVERS SIDE
needs-review • confidence 0.29
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES SCREEN DOOR IS STICKING AT THE TOP - MAY BE THE MAIN DOOR IS STICKING, STRIKER PLATE LOOKS OFF
needs-review • confidence 0.35
cause
Lose cable Loose tension cords
needs-review • confidence 0.29
cause
Front door striker plate is off center Dort sticking on the striker plate
needs-review • confidence 0.35
correction
Tighten cable on blind and adjust as needed Page 4 of 6 © 2026 Integrated Dealer Systems *73528* .20 Promised Date: 28 AUG 26 W/O: 73528 06.16.26: Tightened the tension cords on the blind. Now stays up Work completed Requesting .20
partial-match • confidence 0.40
correction
Striker plate needs to be unscrewed and adjusted. Screwed back on adjusted for front door to make sure I don't damage front door. Photos attached .20 *60349* 06.16.26: Removed the round head screws, flattened out the striker plate. Used flat head screws, reattached the striker plate. Door is not sticking on the striker plate and closes properly. Work completed Requesting .20
matched • confidence 0.67
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BOTH FENDERSKIRTS ARE BROKE
needs-review • confidence 0.32
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE SHELF HAS COME APART IN THE COMPARTMENT WITH OUTSIDE REFRIDERATOR
needs-review • confidence 0.19
cause
Unknown Fender skirts cracked and broken both sides *73528*
matched • confidence 0.71
cause
Unknown Rear and side support fell apart
needs-review • confidence 0.06
correction
Left and right fenders need to be unscrewed and replaced with new ones. New fenders need to be ordered. Left and right fenders need to be screwed back in and adjusted and tested. Photos attached Request .75 06.16.26: Recommend remove and replace both fender skirts
partial-match • confidence 0.47
correction
Wood support inside of compartment has to be screwed and stapled back into place. Supports have to be screwed from inside out to hold support also. Page 5 of 6 © 2026 Integrated Dealer Systems *73528* Photos attached Promised Date: 28 AUG 26 W/O: 73528 Request 1.0 Removed the rear support completely Measured and cut a new support that would cover the whole area corner to corner and attach an upright support and not just paneling Squared the shelf attached the support with screws to the corners Pre drilled hole in the side support and screwed the side support to the paneling Reattached the shelf with staples Reinstalled the drawer Work completed Requesting 1 hour
needs-review • confidence 0.30
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES SCREEN DOOR IS STICKING AT THE TOP - MAY BE THE MAIN DOOR IS STICKING, STRIKER PLATE LOOKS OFF
partial-match • confidence 0.52
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BEDROOM SLIDING DOOR HAS COME OFF THE RAILS
needs-review • confidence 0.23
cause
Front door striker plate is off center Dort sticking on the striker plate
partial-match • confidence 0.52
cause
Hardware pulled off the top of the door
needs-review • confidence 0.23
correction
Striker plate needs to be unscrewed and adjusted. Screwed back on adjusted for front door to make sure I don't damage front door. Photos attached .20 *60349* 06.16.26: Removed the round head screws, flattened out the striker plate. Used flat head screws, reattached the striker plate. Door is not sticking on the striker plate and closes properly. Work completed Requesting .20
matched • confidence 0.86
correction
Found the bedroom door was falling off Remove the trim piece at the entry to the bedroom began looking at the door itself found the hardware that screws to the top of the door had ripped off disconnected the latches remove the door, completely reattach the hardware in a different position Put the door back in place checked for operation found that it did open too far reset the doorstop so that the door could not open past the door guide on the bottom. But the trim piece back on snap the buttons back in place check the operation of the door again set the safety snap securing the door for unit movement work is complete. Will, request 30 minutes
partial-match • confidence 0.46
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES THE SHELF HAS COME APART IN THE COMPARTMENT WITH OUTSIDE REFRIDERATOR
partial-match • confidence 0.47
cause
Unknown Rear and side support fell apart
partial-match • confidence 0.37
correction
Wood support inside of compartment has to be screwed and stapled back into place. Supports have to be screwed from inside out to hold support also. Page 5 of 6 © 2026 Integrated Dealer Systems *73528* Photos attached Promised Date: 28 AUG 26 W/O: 73528 Request 1.0 Removed the rear support completely Measured and cut a new support that would cover the whole area corner to corner and attach an upright support and not just paneling Squared the shelf attached the support with screws to the corners Pre drilled hole in the side support and screwed the side support to the paneling Reattached the shelf with staples Reinstalled the drawer Work completed Requesting 1 hour
matched • confidence 0.74
complaint
CUSTOMER STATES BEDROOM SLIDING DOOR HAS COME OFF THE RAILS
partial-match • confidence 0.51
cause
Hardware pulled off the top of the door
partial-match • confidence 0.44
correction
Found the bedroom door was falling off Remove the trim piece at the entry to the bedroom began looking at the door itself found the hardware that screws to the top of the door had ripped off disconnected the latches remove the door, completely reattach the hardware in a different position Put the door back in place checked for operation found that it did open too far reset the doorstop so that the door could not open past the door guide on the bottom. But the trim piece back on snap the buttons back in place check the operation of the door again set the safety snap securing the door for unit movement work is complete. Will, request 30 minutes
partial-match • confidence 0.49
Evidence Thread
Jeannette Britton
dealer_or_external • Jun 24, 2026, 2:44 PM
@Stephanie K I uploaded this WO with the original tech's suggestions, but he only made suggestions. I requested a different tech complete the work, since this customer needs his unit back. Each line item has a date of 06.16.26, which is what the new tech did. I did have to order a t-stat/thermester. Job 2 and 5 are warranty jobs. If you have questions, let me know.
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Jun 24, 2026, 3:58 PM
Submitted PA J01579001
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Jun 25, 2026, 1:40 PM
@Jeannette B Job 1 approved 2.0
Job 2 - denied - no repair done
Job 3 - approved .7
Job 4 - approved 1.5
Job 5 - denied - battery not installed by Jayco
Job 6 - approved .3
Job 7 approved 1.0
Job 8 approved .2
Job 9 approved .5 for two
Job 10 - approved .2
Job 11 - approved 1.0
Job 12 - approved .5
Jeannette Britton
dealer_or_external • Aug 25, 2026, 4:55 PM
@Stephanie K Is Jayco wanting the old fenderskirts back? Thought I better check before I chuck them. A dump run will be made and I have been asked about them
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Aug 25, 2026, 5:18 PM
In the flat rate manual, it states that the only "part return requirement" is the photo showing the complaint. I think you're good to toss them!
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Aug 31, 2026, 8:28 AM
@Rhianna S Jayco doesn't usually cover freight, but if you want me to try for it, can you send me the invoice?
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Aug 31, 2026, 8:47 AM
Submitted all except job 1
Rhianna Szczesiul
dealer_or_external • Aug 31, 2026, 9:51 AM
Hi Stephanie, we ordered these from NTP so we could get the customer on her way. That is was the shipping charge is for.
Rhianna Szczesiul
dealer_or_external • Aug 31, 2026, 9:52 AM
If you can get it covered that would be great!
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Sep 10, 2026, 8:46 AM
Paid $1652.67 check 488055 9/8/2026
Stephanie Kendziorski
processor • Sep 10, 2026, 9:03 AM
@Jeannette B This work order paid at the $188 labor rate. Not sure if it's too late to adjust in your system.
Jeannette Britton
dealer_or_external • Sep 10, 2026, 9:55 AM
@Stephanie K I will let John M. know and see if he can adjust it. Thank you
Claim Files
73528F.pdf
main-pdf • Aug 28, 2026, 3:25 PM • 339,272 bytes
/home/openclaw/nas/Dropbox/MYRV 12024/7- Claims in Process/7.1- Claims Submitted- iCS/Open Range/73528/73528F.pdf
73528F.pdf
main-pdf • Aug 28, 2026, 3:25 PM • 339,272 bytes
/home/openclaw/nas/Dropbox/MYRV 12024/6-Ready to Submit/Highland Ridge/73528/73528F.pdf
73528.pdf
main-pdf • Jun 24, 2026, 2:39 PM • 337,230 bytes
/home/openclaw/nas/Dropbox/MYRV 12024/5- Pre-Authorizations Approved- MYRV/Open Range/73528/73528.pdf